Most people involved in bonsai for any period of time will likely be familiar with Lime Sulphur. It’s that grubby little bottle of stinky red stuff in the bottom of your tool bag that’s used to preserve and colour deadwood and dissolve little paintbrushes. Doing that particular chore is on nobody’s wish list. BUT did you know that little bottle contains a miracle solution that can significantly raise your bonsai game? Lime sulphur has a huge number of uses and solves a significant number of pernicious problems faced by growers. From pest control to fertiliser, Lime Sulphur is remarkable. So, please give me a few minutes and let’s learn something!

Lime Sulphur – A Miracle Solution – Eradicant, disinfectant & fertiliser! Who knew?
What is Lime Sulphur?
There are a lot of ‘old wives tales’ out there concerning Lime Sulphur. Forget all that, let’s take a look at the facts.
Lime Sulphur is a red liquid with a distinctive rotten egg smell that’s soluble in water. Lime sulphur is used primarily to control pests and disease in horticulture. It’s a saturated aqueous solution of calcium polysulphides, and its use is accepted and approved in organic cultivation in both the UK and EU. Lime sulphur is made by reacting together sulphur and lime in water.

Lime Sulphur is a red liquid with a distinctive rotten egg smell that’s soluble in water.
Lime sulphur is alkaline with a typical pH of 10.5-11.5 so it’s considered caustic or corrosive, to put that into perspective, it’s alkalinity is somewhere between milk of magnesia at pH10.5 and many household cleaners that have a pH between 11-13. It has to be handled very carefully due to fumes that are hazardous but beyond that it’s a fairly safe product to use.
A Fascinating History.
Lime sulphur is believed to be the earliest synthetic (man made) chemical used as a pesticide sometime around the 1840s in France to control grape vine powdery mildew, which had been introduced from the USA in 1845 and reduced wine production by 80%. In 1886 it was first used in California to control San Jose scale and peach leaf curl.

Today many chemicals have been banned, folk are discovering many of the old ways again. Old timers knew a thing or two!
Commencing around 1904, commercial suppliers began to manufacture lime sulphur; prior to that time, growers were expected to manufacture their own. By the 1920s essentially all commercial orchards in western countries were protected by regular spraying with lime sulphur. However by the 1940s, lime sulphur began to be replaced by synthetic fungicides which risked less damage to the crop’s foliage. With hindsight we know that was something of a mistake. Now many of those chemicals have been banned folk are discovering many of the old ways again. Lime sulphur is an effective, safe and sustainable product when used correctly and wisely.
Lime Sulphur – How It Works.
Lime Sulphur is an agent of eradication, a substance that destroys a parasitic organism or infection at the point of contact (i.e. not systemic) and has been used in horticulture for centuries due to its fungicidal and insecticidal properties. Lime Sulphur is highly effective against a range of pests and diseases, making it a valuable tool in the arsenal of growers.
Lime sulphur breaks down after it’s applied, releasing valuable plant nutrients. The sulphur dioxide is the main element that’s toxic to insects and fungi, and it eradicates them through direct contact or through fumigation which can work from a slight distance. In simple terms sulphur is absorbed by insects and it interferes with their ability to create energy, it also releases hydrogen sulphide gas (smells of rotten egg) which poisons them. It is toxic to insects and mites due to hydrogen sulphide formed through reaction of the polysulphide components with water and carbon dioxide, or put more simply, lime sulphur reacts with the atmosphere to produce hydrogen sulphide which poisons the pests.
A short time after application lime sulphur breaks down into it’s constituent parts of lime and sulphur. The hydrogen sulphide quickly dissipates and what’s left are two extremely valuable plant nutrients in the form of ……lime and sulphur. More on that later.
Lime Sulphur can be used in the UK and EU as a fungicide, insecticide and miticide. This includes organic crops. As covered in EU Regulations (EC) No 889/2008.
Is Lime Sulphur Safe to Use?
In a word…..no. However all manner of everyday products aren’t safe either but used correctly the dangers are minimal. There’s a tin of Brasso in the office, it’s great for cleaning metals but were I to drink it or pour it into my ear daily it’s almost certainly hazardous to my health. Same with bleach, fertilisers, fuels, glue and even some food products, my dad recons my home made hot sauce is extremely dangerous! We live in the age of overbearing ‘health & safety’ rules which might lead one to believe even being in the same building as a chemical could be injurious. We need to be sensible, take suitable precautions and all will be well.
If lime sulphur were 100% safe it would be useless. Taking simple precautions will ensure complete safety for the user whilst successfully achieving the desired result. It has to be handled very carefully due to fumes that are hazardous. But, Lime Sulphur is an extremely effective tool for pest and disease management and presents minimum risk to the user.

Lime Sulphur is safe to use but do take appropriate safety measures. 🙂
It is essential that you follow the proper safety precautions listed on the label when using Lime Sulphur, including wearing protective gloves, goggles, and a FFP3 type B filter mask. As part of its action, Lime Sulphur releases hydrogen sulphide gas which smells of rotten eggs and is hazardous to humans. So only use in well ventilated areas.
A few hours after application Lime Sulphur will be fully reacted and is no longer hazardous. It actually converts into plant-available nutrients (calcium and sulphur). As Lime Sulphur has a non-residual action, and is composed of simple chemicals, it can be used in organic growing and has no detrimental long term environmental impact.
Lime sulphur should be kept well away from the aquatic environment, children, animals and anything else you do not want to kill. When spraying always work outside and try to stand upwind to avoid being covered in overspray or breathing vapours. Spray yourself then walk in the house and the consequences may well be dire if your other half is home! Fortunately lime sulphur washes out of clothes easily but skin contamination may take a day or two to dissipate completely.
Whilst it feels redundant to point out the following I have seen folk do all of these things. Keep lime sulphur off your skin or it’ll smell for a couple of days which is both embarrassing and detrimental to marital harmony. Keep out of your eyes, splashes will sting like hell, irrigate with lots of clean water. Avoid exposure to fumes, these can sting eyes and should not be inhaled. Do not rinse used brushes in your tea or drink. Lime sulphur, being alkaline would react with stomach acid releasing that sulphur dioxide and could end in a Mr Creosote type scenario.
Lime sulphur reacts with strong acids. NEVER MIX WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN CLEAN TAP WATER.
Due to its high sulphur content, Lime Sulphur has a strong odour but this quickly disperses. When using in glasshouses or covered areas, ensure adequate ventilation. Store in a cool dry place, away from heat and free from freezing. Keep sealed in it’s original container and secured away from unauthorised users, children, wildlife and pets. STORE AWAY FROM ACIDS.
Always source Lime Sulphur from a reputable supplier. Home made products are just too variable to be considered safe especially when treating expensive bonsai trees. Just don’t take the risk on a cheap bottle your mate whipped up in his backyard or you found on an auction site.
Good Lime sulphur can last for up to five years if stored properly in a quality container, but it’s best to use it within two years. Use diluted solutions immediately. An old, out of date or contaminated product may be suitable for painting onto bonsai deadwood but do not use for treating plant P&D (pest & disease).
So, enough of all this health and safety, what can Lime Sulphur actually do?
Pest and Disease Control with Lime Sulphur
Most bonsai folk will be familiar with the use of lime sulphur to winter wash. Winter washing is the process of spraying dormant leafless trees in late winter to eradicate fungi and pests that may be hiding in the bark and branches. These often emerge as the weather warms up and cause problems. However as I mentioned at the top, lime sulphur has a lot more to offer.
Lime sulphur can be used to control a range of fungal diseases including Black Spot, Powdery Mildew, Peach Leaf Curl, Rust, Shot Hole and most root zone fungal rots. Lime sulphur can also be used to control most insect infestations including Vine weevils, Scale insects, Mites, Saw fly larvae and Caterpillars, Spider mites and Spiders, Aphids, Thrips, Leatherjackets and most anything else that walks or crawls.
Lime sulphur is generally considered safe for bees so long as direct contact is avoided. Avoid contact with bees by spraying during the dormant season or when it’s too cold (typically below 12 Celsius) for bees to be flying. When application is required during the growing season take precautions to avoid bee contact for 24 hours by putting sprayed plants into a closed greenhouse overnight or covering with horticultural fleece. Once the spray has completely dried on the plant it will be safe for bees. Avoid spraying when plants are in flower, it’ll achieve very little and will also discolour and spoil blooms. Never spray Lime Sulphur when it’s hot.
In bonsai Lime sulphur is primarily used as a treatment for the preservation of deadwood. This is achieved thanks to the deposition of sulphur deposits which prevent fungal growth that causes rot. The whitening effect is a secondary benefit resulting from the residual lime within the solution. Lime has good disinfectant properties and will destroy many bacteria and fungi.
How To Use Lime Sulphur –
Preserving Bonsai Deadwood
A simple task but as always there are some tricks of the trade that will significantly improve results. For this task Lime sulphur is used neat, decant from the bottle and don’t put dirty solution back into the bottle or it will contaminate the remainder.
Lime Sulphur is best applied to dried/seasoned and oxidised wood. Recently carved green wood is best left for a year to dry out completely before the first application. Applying to freshly cut wood gives the solution almost no chance to penetrate the surface because of moisture or sap still present. In time the residual lime will begin to flake.
Preserve bonsai deadwood at least once a year, or ideally twice, once in autumn before the winter wet arrives and again in mid-summer when the wood should typically be at its driest (internally) thus ensuring good penetration into the surface.
Applying lime sulphur is simple. All you have to do is very lightly damp the woods surface with a mist spray of water and then apply sparingly with a brush. Don’t apply to wood whose surface is completely dry as it will endeavour to just bounce off. Once finished you will need to allow the product to dry naturally in a protected spot for 24 hours. This ensures the sulphur fully penetrates the wood before rain has a chance to carry it away. Once weathered the wood will become whiter and look very natural.
To learn more about preserving bonsai deadwood see Graham’s article – Preserving Bonsai Deadwood
Winter Washing With Lime Sulphur
Winter washing will significantly help in the control of many fungal and pest problems later in the growing season. Issues like peach leaf curl (seen on many fruiting varieties like blackthorn), elm leaf and other forms of gall and powdery and sooty mildew as often seen on oaks cannot be treated once symptoms are visible. Often visible effects are consequential symptoms of an already active disease or pest. Using Lime Sulphur during the cold weather before pathogens become active is extremely effective.

Don’t use Lime Sulphur for this type of winter washing!
Winter washing is generally associated with deciduous trees, particularly fruiting varieties but the technique is extremely effective at controlling problems suffered by evergreen varieties too. Over the years I have had personal experience of stubborn pest issues like sooty mildews, scale insects and other pernicious pests that, ultimately were all eradicated permanently by winter washing with Lime Sulphur.
Winter washing is a simple and safe process that requires spraying plants with diluted Lime Sulphur. However some precautions have to be taken to make the process safe and effective. First up, personal safety as mentioned above. An old overcoat, hat and hanky around the face might have been ok for your grandad but let’s up our game a little folk. I have been in serious trouble at home for stinking the house out and spent nights on the sofa.
In the UK winter washing is typically done around late February time. Washing too early may reduce the effectiveness. We want to wash as close to spring as we can but too late can cause problems for embryonic leaves as bud scales crack open. If that happens it’s too late and the opportunity has passed. Timing will vary according to local conditions and being a little too early is better than missing the chance by waiting too long.
Use a horticultural pressure spraying device to apply Lime Sulphur winter wash. A trigger spray will not produce an even and effective cover. It only takes a small spot of untreated bark to allow pests to survive. Use a fine misting spray and cover every part of the plant by spraying from above, beneath and both sides, including any deadwood or jin. Spray until the bark is evenly wet but avoid too much run off. Winter washing solution is stronger than that used for soil treatment so try to avoid too much solution running into the rootball though a little will not cause any problem.
Lime sulphur can temporarily discolour or stain some types of pot used in bonsai. Unglazed pots are particularly at risk but many older valuable and antique pots can be marked or permanently stained. Personally I use an old large bath towel that’s slightly damp. This is curled around the base of the trunk so it covers soil and pot in one go prior to spraying.
Evergreen plants are treated in much the same way though I personally tend to avoid soaking the entire foliage. I have found spraying the trunk then spraying branches from beneath is sufficient. Hydrogen sulphide gas is effective at a little distance and the evergreen canopy of foliage will help to retain this for a very short period that seems to be sufficient to get the job done.
After winter washing is complete allow the plant to dry naturally. If rain is expected plants should be placed under cover, like an open greenhouse and allowed to dry. Once the plant is fully dry it will have a ghostly grey appearance, when you see this the plant is safe to place back outside this is typically about 24 hours. After a couple weeks of exposure to the elements the grey colour will magically vanish along with the pests.
Dilution rates for winter washing with Lime Sulphur –
- Deciduous trees without leaves – Mix 30 ml of neat undiluted lime sulphur per litre of clean water. (1:33 solution)
- Evergreen coniferous trees – Mix 20 ml of neat undiluted lime sulphur per litre of clean water. (1:50 solution)
- Stronger solutions are possible but over the years I have found the above rates of dilution get the job done in almost every circumstance.
Vine Weevil Control Using Lime Sulphur
Vine weevils are literally everywhere these days. Personally I don’t loose any sleep over the little critters but I know a lot of folk do. I am constantly asked for a solution which up until now has entirely centred around the use of Provado whose availability seems patchy, there are a couple of other similar chemicals available. These are typically systemic action products that are extremely effective. However at £12-15 a pop this is going to cost a great deal to treat a half decent bonsai collection.

Mature vine weevil beetle are hard to control because they move around a lot.

Immature larvae develop within the confines of the soil so are easy to get at with Lime Sulphur treatments.
Many folk swear by vine weevil control using nematodes but seeing as I have no personal experience I’ll not run up that particular tree.
If you need a quick, cheap and 100% effective solution for controlling vine weevils and other soil borne pests from leather jackets to wire worms look no further than our little red bottle of Lime Sulphur. I must admit this freaked me out when I first heard it yonks ago but it works and it’s safe!
Vine weevils are small beetles that pose a threat to a wide range of ornamental plants, fruit trees, and vegetables. They are especially problematic during their larval stage, as the grubs feed on the roots of plants, causing significant damage and even death in severe cases (unlikely where trees are concerned). Adult vine weevils, characterised by their dark brown or black colour and distinctive “elephant snout” appearance, feed on leaves, leaving unsightly notches. Fortunately the beetles don’t fly, they walk, and they walk all over the place so controlling them is largely out of the question but the grubs stay put and are easy to get at.
So for vine weevil control using Lime Sulphur we are going to prepare a root drench for application when plants are fully dormant. First up we need to mix a solution of 25ml neat Lime Sulphur per litre of clean tap water (1:40 solution). Pour the diluted Lime Sulphur solution slowly and evenly over the infested soil (which needs to be a little on the wet side of damp prior to treatment) making sure to thoroughly wet the entire root zone. The solution works by releasing hydrogen sulphide gas which sterilises the soil, killing any vine weevil eggs, larvae, or adults present. It also helps in preventing fungal and bacterial diseases that can further weaken the plants.
Treatment in autumn should eradicate grubs and eggs laid over the previous summer. If your plants continue to suffer from Vine Weevil after two treatments, fortnights apart, you can increase the dose rate to 30 or 40 ml of Lime Sulphur per litre of tap water, however, the compost must be wet already, and sensitive or active plant roots may also be harmed by higher doses than this. There are a very few plants that are sensitive to sulphur, these should not be treated, do a little research ahead of time.
Root Drench Treatment Using Lime Sulphur
A root drench is often used to treat either pest or fungal problems hidden within the soil. Personally I have used this technique to control persistent pests like root aphid which can be a pernicious critter that severely weakens the plant it infests. This is also a useful technique to help get on top of hard to eradicate fungal problems like black spot, sooty and powdery mildews and the like. Many of these survive the winter via spores in the soil.
Use a simple solution of 15/20ml per litre of clean tap water and flood or dunk pots, again the soil needs to be a little damp to slightly wet prior to drench. Do this either in autumn once the weather turns cold or in late winter before dormancy breaks.
The best part of using Lime Sulphur for root protection? After a few hours, diluted Lime Sulphur will be fully reacted and is no longer hazardous. It actually converts into plant-available nutrients (calcium and sulphur). As Lime Sulphur has a non-residual action, and is composed of simple chemicals, it can be used in organic growing. Bonsai often suffer from a lack of sulphur which shows as yellowing of young foliage, often mistaken for a nitrogen deficiency. Lime Sulphur will also combat over acidification of the root mass, a common problem in soft water areas or where large amounts of organic fertiliser are used over extended periods.
If using lime sulphur as a root drench bothers you, and it did me for some time I would recommend using a very weak solution at around 10ml per litre, this can be extremely efficient at preventing problems arising in the first place. This rate is also good for sterilising soil and killing pathogens if you are using any form of recycled soil or material coming from a compost heap or some such.
Scale Insect Treatment Using Lime Sulphur
By far the most difficult and problematic pest issue to afflict bonsai trees has to be scale insect (scale and mealy bug are in the same family). Often this nasty pest goes unnoticed. I remember a lad who came to a workshop a few years ago with a little tree and was telling me how it had amazing bark quality. He was crestfallen when I shew him that crusty appearance was in fact a complete and utter covering of scale unlike anything I have ever seen.

Scale insects that infect bonsai trees can be hard to eradicate but, Lime Sulphur works a treat.
Scale insects belong to the family Coccoidea and are known for their protective, scale-like coverings that shield them from predators and harsh environmental conditions. These tiny pests come in various shapes, sizes, and colours, but they all have one thing in common: they feed on plant sap. Scale insects attach themselves to the stems, foliage, and branches of plants, depriving them of vital nutrients and weakening their overall health.
These pernicious creatures do a lot of damage to most varieties used in bonsai from pines to maples. There seem to be some very specialised types of scale that are hard to recognise, like juniper scale that appears as tiny white spots among the foliage. I’m not here to discuss the unpleasant world of scale but other than physical removal with a brush and methylated spirit (effective to a degree) no commercial preparation I have found will even touch them but…….
If you need to control scale when they are inside their hard shells then a good option is to apply diluted Lime Sulphur. This will act as a fumigant. Lime Sulphur works all year round, so can be applied when the plant is dormant and so there is no risk of scorch damage to the leaves.
Lime Sulphur solution is extremely effective and fast working. It can entirely eradicate scale insect in 24 hours. As an example a while back I obtained an extremely old and mature specimen of Elaeagnus, a beautiful old Japanese tree. When it arrived I immediately noticed it was absolutely covered in tiny white scale insects, by my estimation they had been there for at least three growing seasons. I tried all summer to clean it up with limited success. Once February came around and in a little desperation I broke out the Lime Sulphur and the next day I washed the whole lot away with the hose. Two years later the tree is thriving and not a single scale has returned.

Elaeagnus is a favourite of scale insects.

From being absolutely covered in scale insect to entirely clean thanks to Lime Sulphur application over winter.
For the treating of scale insect across the dormant season dilute 30 to 40ml of neat Lime Sulphur per litre of clean tap water and spray using a heavy mist directly onto the insects which will almost always be on the underside of the branches. Spray the entire surface of the tree and allow to dry naturally for 24 hours.
When treating scale on evergreen trees I personally spray at the end of winter using 20ml of Lime sulphur to 1 litre of clean tap water. This it then sprayed, again with a heavy mist to cover the entire tree including the foliage. Repeat after 2 weeks if necessary.
General Pest Control Using Lime Sulphur
Lime sulphur is primarily used when plants are dormant as we have seen above but CAN be used as a growing season spray. If at any point you are unsure about the use of lime sulphur make a test by applying, as you intend to, on either a small less important similar plant, part of a larger plant or a few leaves growing on a plant in the garden. After a couple of days what you see is what you are likely to get. Always start using a weaker solution and increase the dilution rate for a subsequent application if required. Don’t be afraid to test but always try to use the weakest solution possible in order to get the required result.
Growing season applications can be made when leaves are present but should be applied in the evening when temperatures are cooler to avoid leaf burn. If it’s very warm don’t use lime sulphur. Avoid spraying soft young foliage of broadleaf trees. In general it’s safe to apply lime sulphur solution to conifer foliage so long as the solution is a weaker one and the foliage has been dampened with clean water. Don’t spray immature young foliage that has not fully matured and hardened off.
Before application give the plant a good covering spray with plain clean water. Then mix 10ml per litre of Lime Sulphur to 1 litre of clean water and apply using a fine misting sprayer to infected parts of your plants. Allow to dry naturally outside overnight, keep covered but well ventilated if rain is expected. Once dry return the plant to it’s normal place.
To avoid plant damage caused by lime-sulphur, DO NOT spray when:-
• temperatures exceed 20°C
• when soil is dry and plants are suffering from moisture stress.
• when freezing weather is expected.
• within 14 days of an oil/pesticide or fertiliser spray.
Disinfectant Use of Lime Sulphur
Lime sulphur is an extremely effective disinfectant for general nursery use. It can be used for everything from sterilising compost or previously used pots to sanitising benches and standing areas. Use a solution of 50ml per litre of clean tap water and spray to thoroughly soak surfaces. Soil sterilisation is best achieved by thoroughly soaking using a watering can, pots etc” can be dunked in a container of solution. Sterilised soil should be allowed to sit for a good few days before use.
Lime Sulphur As Bonsai Fertiliser
This is perhaps the most surprising use for Lime Sulphur in bonsai cultivation. The notion that because something smells bad it must be harmful is a modern one borne of our ultra-processed existence. Forget all that, smelly lime sulphur is extremely beneficial to plants as we have seen but FERTILISER! Really?
Bonsai that grow in tiny amounts of soil need to have nutrients added skilfully throughout the growing season. Many traditional and proprietary fertiliser products have little or no sulphur included or present. Up until the 1970s sulphur deficiencies were fairly rare. In the developed world, sulphur was common as dissolved sulphur dioxide; a pollutant from industrial processes. As industry cleaned up its act, and we have moved away from coal-fired power stations, the supply of sulphur nutrition from pollution has dramatically reduced and now needs to be added artificially.
In bonsai our use of largely inert aggregate products as growing media exasperate the sulphur issue. Organic matter can be a good source of sulphur for plants but this is short lived in our limited soil volumes. The widespread use of organic fertilisers like Green Dream, Biogold or Rapeseed Pellets go a long way towards taking up the slack and supplying important nutrients but over time the cumulative effects can lead to over acidification of the soil. Most plants typically struggle to absorb nutrients from acidic soil and the lower the pH the harder it is.
Most nutrient deficiencies show as yellowing foliage making diagnosis difficult. A sulphur deficiency is a little unusual as it presents as noticeable yellowing of immature foliage. Yellowing is most commonly diagnosed as either nitrogen or iron deficiency but can just as easily be the result of sulphur being in short supply. Additionally if the plants soil has become overly acidic this quickly manifests in much the same way.
The solution is simple. Lime sulphur will quickly reduce the acidity of soil thanks to its lime content thus improving nutrient take up. It will also supply sulphur in a plant available form that’s quickly absorbed. Just add a teaspoon (5ml) or two to a watering can of clean water and apply to soil at any time throughout the growing season. The first application should be in spring as growth gets under way, another around mid summer and the final just before leaf fall and before frosts in autumn. This has the added benefit of keeping pests under control.
Obviously don’t apply lime sulphur to ericaceous plants like satsuki azaleas etc’. There is also no need to apply additional lime sulphur if you have recently used the product as a root drench. Remember you should NOT mix with other fertilisers, apply lime sulphur alone and only mixed into clean water.
In Conclusion – Lime Sulphur – A Miracle Solution
As we have seen Lime Sulphur is a simple, widely effective and safe solution to many of the problems encountered across the infinitely variable world of horticultural P&D control. It has no residual harmful presence in the environment and both elements, the lime and the sulphur are ultimately absorbed by plants as helpful, in bonsai often lacking, nutrients. The only real downside is the short lived smell. In my experience this is no worse than that experienced following the application of a good organic fertiliser and is of little consequence so long as it stays outside.
As with all chemicals Lime Sulphur should be respected, used responsibly and with appropriate safety measures. Diluted correctly and applied with care and forethought it’s an extremely good and effective answer to some very persistent pest issues. Clean up is easy with nothing more than warm soapy water required. Lime Sulphur is a simple, easy and extremely economical alternative to modern chemicals and has been proven over close on two hundred years.
Remember, if in doubt about Lime Sulphurs use begin with a weak solution. You can always test a few leaves or a less important plant just to satisfy oneself your plan is safe. Where application to foliage is required make sure the foliage is damp before spraying. Protect ceramic pots from contact with anything other that weak solutions and don’t use when the weather is too warm.
Finally use a good product from a reputable quality source. Store in a dark cool place protected from freezing and away from animals, kids and NOWHERE near any acids. Do not spray when bees are active and protect waterways from contamination in any form. Don’t drink it or rub it on your boils, absolutely keep it out of any small cuts and ones eyes and other orifices and all should be well.
Disclaimer.
All of the above advice is given freely in good faith based on my own experience using lime sulphur in my own UK garden based on over 35 years of bonsai cultivation. Techniques, dilution rates and timings may vary where you are and dependent upon the product you are using. Always follow manufacturers advice and familiarise yourself with local rules and regulations regarding the use of Lime Sulphur. We accept no responsibility for the actions or outcomes of anyone acting beyond our control.
Great info regards all the other uses of lime sulphur
Expect a run of orders – assuming you are a reliable and reputable supplier…
Regards,
Andrew. (eagerly waiting for delivery!)
How many teaspoons per gallon of a pump sprayer to help with the yellowing leaves?
See section on using lime sulphur as a fertiliser for nutrient deficiency. Don’t use as a foliar feed.
Another great in depth article, sounds useful as a winter wash.
One question – won’t using it as a soil drenched kill off all the good micro-fauna in the pot ?
Chris. Never had any problems with mycelium and the like, in fact never seen a negative effect from soil application using as above.
G.
Brilliant, thanks Graham. I’ve added to my late winter task list…
Bloody Hell! who knew the amazing properties of Lime Sulphur.
I always look forward to reading your blogs but this is just amazing.
Order to follow soon.